Today I’d like to describe how to re-seal a Bosch VE Diesel Injection Pump. This particular one is of the type used on North American 1983 through 1986 Volvo 700-series (740 or 760) vehicles with D24T (2.4 liter Turbodiesel) engines. The same type of injection pump remained in use for several more years in other parts of the world.
There is a partial parts list, with part numbers and sources, at the very end of this post.
Temporary note, added 2/2/2017:
If you find the information in this post helpful, please take a look at the following post and see if you, or someone you know, can help me out.
Here’s a photo of the pump as I received it:
Next we have something to watch out for:
Notice that little special screw for the cold start cable? I found that in the bottom of the shipping box. This time we got lucky and I found the loose piece; next time we might not be as lucky. Please make sure that all the small components are securely fastened so they don’t get lost during shipment.
Next is a shot of some things *not* to send:
That humongous mounting bracket, and the drive sprocket, are just excess weight. Please keep both of them and save the shipping costs. Both ways. However, if you feel you must send along the drive sprocket, that’s not terribly heavy, and it does have the advantage of my not having to go find a Woodruff key and a nut for my own use during the re-seal.
Next are a couple shots of the Volvo Special tool for locking the drive sprocket to the mounting bracket:
The same trick may be used to remove the front camshaft sprocket on D24 and D24T engines:
Next is a shot of the Volvo special tool for removing Injection Pump input shaft seals:
There are other ways to remove the seal, but the special tool is the best, unless you’re re-sealing the whole pump, in which case it’s easier to pop the seal out with a screwdriver, as will be shown later.
Next we will remove the EGR switch mechanism from the top of the IP:
Make note of where the 8mm hex head screws are located so you can put this switch back in its proper orientation later. From the marks it’s obvious that this one had been previously disturbed by someone else, before it was sent to me.
Actually, there are plenty of indications on this IP that it had been previously “rebuilt”, most likely by a “professional”, i.e., an authorized Bosch repair facility. Unfortunately for the owner of this pump, and for me, they didn’t do a particularly good job of re-assembling it. Mistakes were made, and damage was done, which I had to rectify.
Here’s a shot of the vacuum switch on this EGR mechanism:
Next, remove the EGR mounting bracket:
Next, remove the EGR switch drive ears, as shown below:
Notice the scribe mark on the top of the 6mm throttle shaft. It is aligned with the most clockwise mark on the “throttle” lever. This will not always be the case; sometimes it aligns with one of the other scribe marks on the lever. You must make note of which lines match, and you must make sure that you put it back together in the same position.
Next, remove the 10mm hex nut, the lock washer, the spring, and the “throttle” lever:
Next, remove the microswitch that cuts out the EGR at idle:
Next, remove the top cover of the IP:
To remove the two forward screws, you will probably need to remove the idle screw and the fast idle screw:
First, the idle screw:
Just slightly loosen the jam nut, then remove the screw without disturbing the position of the nut, so you can put it back as close as possible to its former position.
Now take out the forward, inboard, IP cover screw:
Next, remove the fast idle screw:
Again, try to keep the jam nut in position so you can get this screw re-installed in its proper position.
Lay the two idle screws aside, making sure to keep track of which one goes where.
These two screws have their nuts in just about exactly the same position. That is not the general case; usually, the nuts will be in greatly different positions.
Now remove the forward, outboard IP cover screw:
Next, remove the fuel limiter screw:
Here’s a shot of the fuel limiter screw:
Now, lift off the top cover:
Next, remove the cold start lever:
Make note of the position of the spring and pick out the washer from the seal recess:
Remove the large black o-ring seal:
That special Bosch tool is rather hard to come by. Later, I will show you how to make a substitute, which, IMO, is even better than the official tool. You will need this special tool, or a good substitute, if you don’t want to do damage to the pressure regulator valve. So, buy one, or make one.
Here’s the regulator valve all taken out:
Next, remove the altitude compensation solenoid and the tube that connects it to the pressure regulator valve:
Notice the spring adjustment shim in the aluminum housing. There are more on the other end of the spring. Make sure you put them all back in. And make sure that you have at least one shim on each end of the spring. Which end you put any additional shims on is not critical; the spring tension will be the same, either way.
Here’s a shot of the spring and shims:
Now, remove the cast iron high pressure pump head:
Here’s what the innards of this pump looked like after removal of the head:
More mis-located components:
A close up of the cam plate:
Digging in a little deeper:
Here’s a shot of the Rabbit “stand” in use:
Here’s the first screw, partially removed:
Notice that there appears to be no copper washer under the head of either screw. Copper washers were “standard” from the factory. At first, I thought there was no washer here at all, but later I discovered that there’s actually an aluminum washer here. Just another indication that this pump had been previously rebuilt.
I neglected to take a photo of the piece that is held in by those two special triangular screws, so here’s a shot of one from another pump:
Note that the tag says this piece is bent. That happened when someone (not me, I think) mis-assembled another pump. The ball got pushed out of place, and if I recall correctly, the high pressure pump got broken at the same time. It’s easy to do, so be mighty careful. I eventually straightened this piece out and have since used it in one of my own pumps.
Notice the o-ring seal, and take note of where all the washers and spacers go. The exact location of the jam nut on the end of the governor shaft is not critical, but try to get it back somewhere close to where it was.
Next, remove the spring steel clip from the inside of the IP:
Here’s a shot of the governor drive gear:
Using a screwdriver, pop out the input shaft seal:
The basic timing setting (#1 injection) for the Volvo D24 pump sprocket is shown next:
But, this pump is easier to work on using the Rabbit sprocket for support:
Put some assembly grease on the end of the high pressure pump piston:
Notice that the control collar has a chamfered edge toward the right (rear) side and a sharp edge (not shown) at the front. The hole in the face of the control collar goes toward the rear of the pump.
Here it, all in place:
Tip it upside down and move it gently into place:
Be very careful. This is where you have the greatest potential for destroying your IP. That high pressure pump is very easily broken during reassembly. If it doesn’t feel right, take it apart and try again.
Now, remove the manual shutoff lever:
Getting this back together in the right position is critical. If it’s not right, you will not be able to re-install the governor spring mechanism, and you run the risk of bending or even breaking it. If in doubt during reassembly, rotate that black (inner) piece one notch counterclockwise relative to the outer handle, as seen in the above picture.
Next, remove the washer and the o-ring:
Here’s a shot of that piece we just took out:
It should be noted that the screw on the left of the photo is too short. I replaced it with one of proper length during reassembly.
Next, remove the plug, using a 5mm Allen wrench:
This plug can be extremely difficult to remove. I’ve had several where the Allen hex stripped out and the plug stayed in place. You can’t apply heat here because of the rubber parts in the aneroid, so you need a better way. The next photo shows a ground-down file I made especially for the job:
Next, remove the pin:
Per commenter “Dan-C” request, machining dimensions for this “screwdriver” are as follows:
1. Nominal diameter of shank: 7/16″ (0.4375″)
2. Overall length, including head: 1.35″
3. Length without head: 0.92″
4. Major diameter of shank after machining (to fit inside threaded hole): 0.425″
5. Minor diameter of shank after machining (to fit inside screw slot): 0.345″
6. Length of minor (0.345″) diameter: 0.15″
7. Width (thickness) of screwdriver tip: 0.078″
8. Length of screwdriver tip: 0.07″
Here’s another view:
Here’s what came out of the hole, along with a new (green) o-ring to put back in:
Make sure you install the o-ring, then the “screw”, and tighten the screw, and only then, the pin. If you put the pin in before tightening the screw, it will pinch the od of the o-ring, and it will leak. BTDT. Now, put the pin in.
Next, I put the plug back in, tightened it snugly, and marked the bottom position with my file:
It’s 13.14mm across the flats:
Here it is in use:
Remember that manual shutoff lever I cautioned you about earlier? Well, here it is again, just to the right of that tube of sealant. If it’s not located at the proper angle, you will not be able to maneuver the governor springs past it as you re-install the top cover of the IP:
New gaskets for the top cover are difficult to come by, so I use anerobic sealant to ensure no leakage. I tried Hylomar a few times, but the results were not satisfactory. The sealant I use is the same one that Volvo uses between the two halves of their later “White Block” cylinder heads. It’s Volvo Part Number 161059-9.
Here it is, applied to the two halves of the IP:
Next, screw the cover down:
The cold-start mechanism and its o-rings:
The thread damage is quite visible in the next photo:
Lubricate the input shaft seal before installing it:
More previous mistakes:
Another shot of the same bracket, and the left screw:
But, the right one, well, that damaged the pump housing as shown below:
Once again, I drilled it out by hand:
I installed a Helicoil in that hole, also. This time, because I needed a tool longer than my “jobbers” bit, I used a 1/4″ reamer to “drill” out the hole:
Next, install the “throttle” lever, making sure to align the marks properly:
Pay careful attention to corrosion and other marks on the lever to ensure proper orientation of the ears. Of course, the EGR probably doesn’t work anyway, and there are ways to adjust it in the field, but not many people have the instructions.
Install the bracket:
The proper screw length is 16mm:
Now we get to the Cold Start Thermostat. This pump came to me without one on it, and it went home without one, but for the sake of completeness, I went through the motions and took photos anyway:
Here’s a shot of the thermostat, all removed, showing the o-ring seal:
Install the long screw in the top screw hole, crank it down, then install the bottom screw:Since this is going back to the owner without a cold start thermostat, or a front mounting plate, I took that stuff back off:
The plug, the o-ring, and the tool are shown below:
This is the first, and so far, only IP that I’ve replaced this o-ring on. I’ve never known one to leak, and it can be easily replaced in the field, without removing the IP from the vehicle, if it ever does leak, so I recommend you leave yours alone.
Next, we go after the o-ring seal on the fuel shutoff solenoid:
Next, the altitude compensation solenoid:
Next I discuss the screw that holds the rear timing belt cover to the IP mounting bracket:
You need one about 20mm long, as shown next:
With this configuration, it’s much easier to remove and re-install that rear timing belt cover. Try it, you’ll see.
The gasket in the middle is an original one from one of these IPs. The ones on the left and on the right are what come in repair kits these days. The one on the left will not fit because of the nubs on it. The one on the right seems flimsy, and I’ve never used one of them, although my Bosch dealer assures me that work just fine.
I have successfully used ones like the one on the left by removing the nubs with a razor blade.
But, being a certified CB, I prefer to use the one in the middle, along with a bit of anerobic sealant to make sure it doesn’t leak. So far, the results have been great.
Here’s what the flimsy (right) one looks like installed in the top cover:
And next is what the one on the left looks like on the cover:
Remember those “triangular” screws for which I promised earlier that I’d show you how to make a special tool? Well, here we go:
This home-made tool, with a 3/8″ female socket drive, is considerably more convenient than the official Bosch one, which has a 1/2″ male drive, as shown in the next photo:
Once again, I removed a bit of material using my trusty Dremel tool and the special chainsaw grindstone shown above. This homemade tool is also considerably easier to use than the official Bosch tool, which has a 1/2″ male square drive, as shown in the photo above. The tool in the middle of the top row has been hollowed out to fit onto the oblong screw head of the pressure regulator valve, seen just to its right in the top row.
Now, we move on to the inlet and outlet banjo bolt fittings for the IP:
As seen in the next photo, the outlet banjo bolt has a tiny orifice that serves as a restriction to the flow and causes the pressure inside the IP to increase with engine RPM:
As seen in the next photo, the outlet banjo bolt has a strainer inside it:
As seen in the next photo, the IP will almost fiteasily inside a USPS Flat Rate Box:
However, if you want to ship me a pump for rebuild, and if you’d like to do it cheaply, you could remove that lever, taking care to note which of the scribe lines must match up, then re-install the lever arm yourself after I ship it back to you. Your call.
But, make sure you ship me the lever so I can have it to work with. Here’s a partial parts list. The list is sorted by Description, and there are optional part numbers, and sources, for several of the items.
|DGK126||Inj Pump Seal Kit, D24 (Shaft Seal too Large)||1||10.65||Bosch|
|DGK121||Inj Pump Seal Kit, D24T (Shaft Seal too Large)||1||1||16.92||Bosch|
|1-460-210-306||O-Ring, 2.5mm x 22mm ID, for Inj Pump Cold Start Thermostat||1||1||2.07||Bosch|
|2-460-210-012||O-Ring, for Inj Pump front end, 2.5mm x 67.56mm od (2.66″ od)||1||1||4.05||Bosch|
|2-460-223-001||O-Ring, Green, 32mm od, for Inj Pump Cold Start & Timing Adv.||3||3||2.25||Bosch|
|1-460-210-347||O-Ring, Viton, 1.5mm x 4mm ID (for TD Inj Pump Top Boost Rod)||1||0.63||Bosch|
|1-460-210-301||O-Ring, Viton, 2.5mm x 10mm ID (for Inj Pump Cold Start Shaft & Shutoff Lever)||2||2||1.98||Bosch|
|MSC-31959059||O-Ring, Viton, 2.5mm x 10mm ID (for Inj Pump Cold Start Shaft & Shutoff Lever)||2||2||0.63||MSC|
|1-460-210-349||O-Ring, Viton, 2.5mm x 18mm ID (for Front IP Plug)||1||1||3.21||Bosch|
|1-460-210-006||O-Ring, Viton, 2.5mm x 9mm ID (for Inj Pump Shutoff Solenoid)||1||1||2.25||Bosch|
|1-460-225-082||O-Ring, Viton, 2mm x 10mm ID (for Inj Pump Press Reg Vlv)||3||3||2.84||Bosch|
|MSC-31958937||O-Ring, Viton, 2mm x 10mm ID (for Inj Pump Press Reg Vlv)||3||3||0.76||MSC|
|MSC-31958887||O-Ring, Viton, 2mm x 5mm ID (for Inj Pump Fuel Adj Screw)||1||1||0.34||MSC|
|1-460-210-008||O-Ring, Viton, 2mm x 6mm ID (for Inj Pump Throttle Shaft)||1||1||1.98||Bosch|
|MSC-31958895||O-Ring, Viton, 2mm x 6mm ID (for Inj Pump Throttle Shaft)||1||1||0.44||MSC|
|1-460-225-081||O-Ring, Viton, 2mm x 8mm ID (for Inj Pump Press Reg Vlv & Governor Shaft)||2||2||0.76||Bosch|
|MSC-31958911||O-Ring, Viton, 2mm x 8mm ID (for Inj Pump Press Reg Vlv & Governor Shaft)||2||2||0.71||MSC|
|1-463-412-301||Screw, 4mm Cheesehead (for Inj Pump Cold Start)||1||1||4.46||Bosch|
|1-460-105-311||Seal Ring, Metal Washer (for TD Inj Pump Top Boost Rod)||1||1.58||Bosch|
|844178||Seal, Injection Pump Input Shaft||1||1||10.59||Volvo|
|1-460-283-312||Seal, Injection Pump Input Shaft||1||1||13.77||Bosch|
|9139507||Thermostat, Cold Start, Inj Pump||1||1||82.17||Volvo|
|1-467-202-302||Thermostat, Cold Start, Inj Pump||1||1||76.00||Bosch|
|1-463-123-576||Tie Rod, Inj Pump Cold Start||1||1||14.03||Bosch|
Sorry about the poor formatting. The list is copied from an Excel spreadsheet, and I don’t seem to have any control over the formatting.